If you're looking for some peace and quiet, paddling through the essex chain of lakes adirondacks is probably the best way to find it. It's one of those spots in the park that still feels like a bit of a secret, even though it's been open to the public for over a decade now. Before the state bought the land, this area was private timber land for a long time, which means it hasn't been over-developed or crowded with lake houses and jet skis. Honestly, the silence out there is something else.
Getting Into the Wild
Getting to the water isn't exactly a drive-up-and-drop-in situation. You have to be okay with a bit of a bumpy ride. You'll find yourself driving down long, winding dirt roads—specifically the Goodnow Flow Road out of Newcomb—to get to the main parking area at Deer Pond. It feels like you're heading into the middle of nowhere, and in a way, you are.
Once you park, you aren't quite at the water yet. You've got a bit of a trek to get your gear from the car to the actual lakes. Most people use a canoe cart for the "carry" (that's Adirondack-speak for a portage). It's about a half-mile walk to the put-in at Deer Pond, or a bit further if you're heading straight for the main chain. If you're bringing a heavy plastic kayak, you might be questioning your life choices about ten minutes into the walk, so lightweight gear is definitely your friend here.
Understanding the Chain
The essex chain of lakes adirondacks consists of about eight main lakes, though they aren't all perfectly connected by wide channels. They are creatively named First through Eighth Lake. Most paddlers spend their time on Second through Sixth, as they are the easiest to navigate in a single trip.
Third Lake is usually the star of the show. It's the largest of the bunch and offers some of the most iconic Adirondack views. You've got clear water, towering pines, and that feeling of being completely tucked away from the rest of the world. Because motors aren't allowed on the main part of the chain, the only thing you'll hear is the sound of your paddle hitting the water or the occasional loon call.
Fourth and Fifth Lakes are much smaller and more intimate. They feel like little hidden rooms off a main hallway. Navigating between them is usually pretty easy unless the water levels are incredibly low, in which case you might have to step out and pull your boat through some muck for a few yards.
Where to Set Up Camp
If you want to stay overnight, you're looking at primitive camping. This isn't a "glamping" destination. There are designated campsites scattered around the lakes, and they are available on a first-come, first-served basis. You can't reserve them, which adds a bit of adventure (or stress, depending on your personality) to the trip.
The sites are great, though. Most of them have a stone fire ring and maybe a flat spot for a tent, but that's about it. Some of the best spots are on Third Lake, where you can catch the sunrise over the water right from your tent flap. Just remember that because this is a primitive area, you have to carry out everything you carry in. There are no trash cans in the woods.
Pro tip: If you're going on a holiday weekend, get there early. Like, really early. The campsites fill up fast because there aren't that many of them, and once they're gone, you're out of luck.
The Reality of the Portages
Let's talk about the carries for a second. In some parts of the Adirondacks, a "carry" is a well-manicured gravel path. In the essex chain of lakes adirondacks, they're a bit more rugged. They can be muddy, root-filled, and slightly uphill.
If you're planning to hit all the lakes in the chain, you're going to be getting in and out of your boat a lot. It's a bit of a workout. But honestly, that's what keeps the crowds away. The physical barrier of having to haul a boat over land filters out the people who just want to sit on a beach with a cooler. Out here, you're earning your solitude.
Wildlife and Fishing
If you're into birdwatching, you're going to love it here. The loon population is healthy, and their calls at night are hauntingly beautiful. You might also spot bald eagles circling overhead or an osprey diving for a fish.
Speaking of fish, the angling is pretty decent. Since the water hasn't been pressured by motorboats for years, the fish are definitely there. You'll mostly find brook trout and lake trout, along with some panfish. Just make sure you have your New York State fishing license on you, because the forest rangers do pop up when you least expect them.
As for bigger wildlife, moose have been known to frequent the swampy edges of the lakes, especially around Fifth and Sixth. They like the aquatic plants. I haven't seen one every time I've gone, but I've seen the tracks, and just knowing they're around makes the whole experience feel a bit more wild.
The Best Time to Visit
Every season in the Adirondacks has its own flavor, but for the Essex Chain, fall is probably the winner. The maples and birches surrounding the lakes turn vibrant shades of red and gold, and the reflection on the still water is something you have to see to believe. Plus, the bugs are gone.
Summer is great, but the black flies in June can be absolutely brutal. If you're coming in early summer, bring a head net and the strongest bug spray you can find. By August, the flies die down, but the water levels can get a bit lower, making the passages between lakes a little trickier.
Winter is a whole different beast. The road in usually isn't plowed all the way, so you'd be looking at a long ski or snowshoe trip just to get to the lakes. It's beautiful, but definitely only for people who really know what they're doing in the cold.
A Few Things to Keep in Mind
There are some specific rules for the essex chain of lakes adirondacks that you should know before you go. First, no motors. That's why it's so quiet, so don't even think about bringing an electric trolling motor.
Second, you aren't allowed to use baitfish in these lakes. It's part of an effort to protect the native fish species from invasive ones. Stick to lures or flies.
Third, cell service is basically non-existent. Once you turn off the main highway in Newcomb, your bars are going to drop. Don't rely on a GPS on your phone; bring a physical map or download your maps for offline use before you leave home. It's easy to get turned around on those logging roads.
Why It's Worth the Effort
You might be thinking that a half-mile carry and a long dirt road sound like a lot of work just to go for a paddle. And yeah, it is. But that's exactly why the essex chain of lakes adirondacks is so special.
In a world where everything is accessible and crowded, there's something really rewarding about finding a place that requires a little sweat equity. When you finally push off from the shore of Third Lake and realize there isn't another soul in sight, the long drive and the heavy boat suddenly don't matter. It's just you, the water, and the mountains. And honestly, it doesn't get much better than that.
So, if you're up for a bit of an adventure, grab your canoe and head out there. Just don't forget the bug spray—and maybe a good camera, because you're going to want to remember this place.